Author Archives: Keith

June 7th : Gear Review – Rock Shoes for 2014

The world of rock shoe manufacturing doesn’t stand still for long and this year is no exception. The June edition of Climber magazine is on the shelves and it features a review of no less than thirteen pairs of new shoes by yours truly selected from two categories – beginner, intermediate and all-rounders shoes and specialist performance shoes. If you’re in the market for some new shoes it might be worth taking a quick look through as there’s some surprises in store…

DSC_6253_lo resI, like many climbers, have had my favourite shoe manufacturer for years – 5.10 in my case. However, doing back-to-back shoe reviews for the last two years (see below) has opened my eyes to new products on the market today. More and more though I see experienced climbers trying new shoes looking for any advantage they can get – in my case to buy-back age-related declining performance!

Although most of the shoes tested are brand spanking new, typically they build on previous designs and features looking to spring-board off popular feature sets. Unusually though, some manufacturers have gone retro for 2014 and have re-introduced slightly remodelled shoes from yesteryear.

I commented last year to the effect that there was a huge number of rock shoes on the current market and there’s more coming to market all the time. That trend seems set to continue. Similarly, there’s a veritable mix of lace-ups, velcros and slippers as well as low volume/narrow fit to high volume/wide fitting shoes. Surprisingly, all five of the specialist performance shoes tested are slipper-based shoes with some throwing-in a Velcro closure as well to supplement fit/performance. Perhaps this is proof that slipper/velco fastening shoes are now more popular than traditional lace-ups.

Included in the 2014 review are the following shoes:

rock shoes review_spread#1

Beginner, Intermediate and All-rounder Shoes: Boreal Marduk, Edelrid Blizzard, Evolv Addict, Evolv Defy and Elektra, Five Ten Guide and New Pinks.

Specialist Shoes: Boreal Satori, Boreal Dharma, Edelrid Cyclone, Evolv Nexxo, Scarpa Stix and the Tenaya Ossi.

Here’s some visuals to check-out too…

Yours truly - supervised by Simba - putting the new Pinks thru their paces on the age old classic Hampers Hang (Font 7a)More Hampers Hang actionAnd the flip-side of Hampers Hang

 

 

Posted in Climbing, Reviews

May 16th: Stanage Sunset – the finest there is?…

Sunsets don’t come with a guarantee – you just have to be out there at the right time and in the right place. Tonight was exactly that – grey and un-inspiring one minute and the awesome the next. I got some shots off tonight out at Stanage – did you?

 

Sunset out west from StanageSunset out west from Stanage - wideSunset over Stanage #1Sunset over Stanage #2Sunset over Stanage #3

Posted in Photography, Scenic

May 14th: Spring Collection – the best route ever, Garage, green stuff and yoga…

So, as spring slips away and we flip over to summer it’s a good time to reflect on what we’ve achieved thus far – and then to enviably project forwards! I think that spring is perhaps the most uplifting time of the year; winter’s over and suddenly everything starts to rejuvenate as though by magic. Green shoots emerge all over the place and a cornucopia of flowers follow soon after. Spring is a time to start over; leave the comfort of the climbing wall, and go and get acclimatised to slick, slopey (non-coloured) footfolds on new climbs as well as to try a few new activities. As a photog, it’s a great time to capture new photo opportunities…

Riglos_000_low resAs springs go, 2014 has been pretty dandy for me I’d say. It’s been a time to get back into climbing slowly so that old injuries are carefully managed. It seems to be going OK at the moment and although it’s been a slow and careful progression just before Easter I pulled in what I think might just be the best route I’ve ever done – ever! And given I’ve been climbing a shade over 40 years, it must be good – right? What’s that you say – what’s the route? OK, if you really wanna know, and obviously you do, it La Fiesta de los Biceps at Riglos. I’m holding back on this one but I’ll give you a taster right now.

Meanwhile, back on planet home, Garage Buttress at Stoney has been a great venue and one which just keep on giving! Easy access, virtually perma-dry and some great climbing – though not (thankfully) to everyone’s taste! Oh yes, and there’s some selfies I shot whilst doing a rock shoe review; a piece of cake using the intevalometer which is in-built in the D800. Non-climbing subjects have featured a fair bit of super-rich and season flora, such as bluebells and wild garlic, with some family-based biking shots and even a yoga shoot thrown in for good measure!

Photographically it’s been interesting too. Not though for what I’ve been shooting, more for what I’ve been shooting on. When I’m looking for the absolute max my go-to camera is my D800. However, if ‘light is right’, then it’s the Sony RX100 without a question. I’ve lugged my D800 up routes before and it ain’t fun! Amazingly though, and like most folks these days, I’m anyway packing a camera even it’s the 8mg camera on my Samsung Galaxy. It doesn’t hold a candle to either of the other two if the chips (sic!) are  down, but it’s a whole load better than nothing and for on-line consumption it holds up pretty OK. Horses for courses you might say!

Here’s my spring collection then for you – shot on any one from the D800, the RX100 or the Galaxy…

It's tough, but someone has to test rock shoes! The new Pinks from 5.10 hanging out off Hampers Hang, StanageClimbing archioligists take note; an early 'nut' recovered from the ivy on Garage Buttress, StoneyKristian on his new super-crimpy F8a  at GarageRuth putting Jill through her yoga pacesYoga's fun too - honestVibrant Spring colours are beautifulBrinciffe Edge Wood bursting into lifeFornby Beach, Liverpool, won't you believe!More scouse bluebells!And yet more bluebellsYorkshire wild garlic flowers #1Yorkshire wild garlic flowers #2Yorkshire wild garlic flowers #3Yorkshire wild garlic flowers #4Chelsea Park, Sheffield #1Chelsea Park, Sheffield #2The Beach - yeah, really @ Easter!Trail ridingThe drive to Riglos, SpainThe view out the back of the refugio, Riglos, SpainRiglos TowersFiesta Tower - and yep, it's nearly 1000 foot tall!La Fiesta de los Biceps, the cruz. Quite probably, the best route in the world!la bateria F7a  on El Sendero, Santa Ana

Posted in Climbing, Environmental

April 21th: Mojo Rising (Old skool bouldering at The Breck)…

I remember the magazine images clearly. They conveyed an urban, gritty feel to the climbing which looked distinctly esoteric – a locals’ local, albeit with some gnarly testpieces. Over the years I’d never been to the crag nor had I ever spoken to anyone else who has climbed there – or, perhaps more accurately, I’ve never spoken to anyone who wanted to admit they’d climbed there! Thirty odd years had passed since the magazine article and I’d all but forgotten about it then, flicking though Grimer’s Boulder Britain guide, there it was on page 184 and less than a mile from where the in-laws lived! “Yeah, we used to climb on Granny Rock as kids” said my wife to my surprise. I added it to the list of places to check-out – at some point…

My opportunity came yesterday on Easter Sunday. I think that Easter is a great time to grab a power top-up and Fontainebleau (where else) would head my list of venues – given the choice. It’s fair to say that The Breck would be a good deal lower down my list. However,  as we’d pitched-up on The Wirral at the in-laws it was either travel and go indoors or nip down to The Breck. I had little more than an hour or so to spare so it wasn’t a hard decision – The Breck it was.

Grimer’s intro is classic: “The holy grail of graffiti and urban chic with highball crimping and ghosts of old heroes”. The sun was shining and the bluebells were out and it seemed a tad surreal almost – a climbing retreat amidst such domesticity. Situation wise, I couldn’t help but draw parallels with Sissy Crag in Sydney – but let’s stop right there! The delightfully named Bluebell Wall seemed the obvious place to start. Think Burbage North size-wise but add a concrete topping and then some railings immediately behind. Warming-up was interesting; Bluebell Crack, Fagan and Melancholy all seemed about the same grade despite being 4+, 4+ and 6a respectively. They were high too – this was real old skool bouldering especially as I was travelling light and was sans pad! The final twist was that you either had to down-climb the problem or traverse along the top and then drop-down an easier problem; good for the head and a bit extra mileage!

Bluebell Wall @ The BreckJust opposite, Granny Rock looked tempting – and lowball! The blocky front face was covered in easy ledges but the back-side had a handful of problems including a couple of traverses and some pretty impressive graffiti! It seemed an unlikely place for some quality climbing but all four blocs give just that – Positron Traverse at 6b stood out. Amongst the graffiti I spotted a collection of shabby pockets leading from the middle of the wall to the left arête. It’s an entertaining little link and it soaked up all my remaining time. I couldn’t leave though, and nor should anyone else visiting for the first time, without nipping over and have a look at Overhanging Wall – home to Al Rouse’s Direct 7b+ and Steve Haston’s Dyno 7c+. Both looked good, shockingly high and distinctly old skool – a remarkable testament to the standards achieved yonks ago. Grimer’s descriptions were bang on the money.

Visits to the in-laws will never be the same again!

Mojo rising - selfie of me on Granny RockCrimping the graffiti

Posted in Bouldering, Photography

April 14th: Ain’t the Peak District an awesome place…

Despite having lived within a stone’s throw of the Peak for coming up forty years now it never fails to take my breath away with what an awesome place it is! Sunday just gone, was a perfect example – just incredible…

Sheffield was havin’ a bluebird day; a cloudless blue sky day, reasonably calm and peaceful – spring was fully in the air. Not so out in the Peak where there was a full-on hooley blowing. Cyclists were being blown all over the place (I know, I been that zig-zaging cyclist earlier that morning), walkers (these that cared more about their comfort than their cool appearances) had their hoods up and jackets fastened and east-facing (ie sheltered) buttresses seemed to be pulling more climbers than usual.

Paraglider above StanageFrustratingly, and despite it being an absolute drop-dead gorgeous day, there was not much action going down and – not understandably – zilch activity upstairs. Simply there was nowt to shoot – so I didn’t! Boo hoo. Last night though I was doing some work on my photo archive and came across a bunch of pixs that I’d shot a couple of years back on a similar (but sans wind) day that had been sitting (quietly) on my hard drives ever since. As I hadn’t captured anything yesterday I thought I’d share the pixs from the archive. They make the point though that the Peak really is an awesome place – on every level!

‘Discovering’ these shots languishing on my hard drives is a tad embarrassing really hence a metaphorical note to self – “update your portfolios you puppet!”…

Running off Carl's Wark down towards the Burbage BrookMicro-light above Burbage ValleyParaglider above Stanage

Posted in Adventure, Aviation, Running

April 7th: Shine a light…

Although it’s a tad retrospective now – the last month or so has just disappeared – March’s copy of Climber magazine carried my review of the latest in so-called hands-free (aka head torches) lighting. From the uber Mammut X-Sun (a 950 lumen monster) through to the delimitative Petzl e+Lite (a 25 lumen emergency unit) there really is a headtorch for every occasion…

Without a doubt, headtorches are an essential part of climbers’ kit-bags. Today, cheap headtorches are sold in main stream supermarkets from as little as a fiver a pop whilst the specialised shops sell the top-end units costing anything up to £250 quid. They’re used for all manner of activities – anything from dog-walking to emergency services through to elite athletes for climbing or other extreme sports. As power and functionality vary, so does size and cost. The review covered fifteen different units as well as giving the low-down on the plethora of batteries and LED types currently in use. If you don’t want to be left in the dark (I know – crap pun…) then check the review out.

Incidentally, as part of the review I dug-out my old Petzl Zoom headtorch from the bottom of the wardrobe and compared it with the X-Sun and the e+Lite (mentioned above). The results show quite plainly exactly what the R&D departments have achieved in the 30 odd years since Petzl first brought their legendary Zoom to market. Take a look for yourself at the pixs below and the difference is obvious. For the geeks amongst us, the e+Lite delivers the same (25 Lumen) output as the Zoom albeit at a fraction of the size/weight whilst the X-Sun knocks out over whooping 38 times more light than the Zoom.  The times sure are a changing…

And here’s a shot of the X-Sun and the e+Lite alongside the old past master, the Zoom…

 

DSC_5521_lo res

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in General, Reviews

Feb 12th: F-BO14 – not just another boudering comp…

Saturday the 8th February saw a fair few of the UK’s bouldering elite gather at the Foundry in Sheffield for the F-BO14 bouldering competition. Since it first opened its doors, the Foundry has long been the scene for climbing comps – those of us who have been regular visitors over the years will remember the then sixteen year old Chris Sharma appearing in a Foundry bouldering comp back in the 90’s! F-BO14, is the latest in that series, and what a cracking event it turned out to be too…

The morning qualification round saw the elite, the good and the would-be’s all rubbing shoulders on no less than 25 problems – all carefully devised and crafted by the setting team which comprised the regular Foundry setter, Rob Napier, Percy Bishton (on sabbatical from The Works) and guest setter and strong-man/ex-British bouldering champ, Ned Freehally; nothing if not a strong, stout and sly setting trio! Collectively, they served up a veritable cordon beau menu of problems. One problem had just three holds arranged in a horizontally manner rather than upwards! Challenging the paradigm indeed!

Emerging from the quallies as the lady finalists were Shauna Coxsey, Michaela Tracy, Diane Merrick, Katie Maxwell, Gracie Martin and Ella Russel. The six-man testosterone-laden crew comprised Thom Arnold, Nathan Phillips, Cailen Harker, Martin Smith and Ben Moon. Yep, that’s THE Ben Moon who is back on the scene and pulling down with remarkable determination once more. The stand-out performance from qualification was supplied by Shauna who flashed every single problem to return a perfect score-card!

The finals were run using the familiar bouldering comp format – two climbers (one male, one female) both climbing at once on two problems over a four minute slot before back to isolation. Both legs were pretty closely contested. Shauna Coxsey emerged in top place – though she was pushed hard by Michaele and Diane. Shauna dropped the very last problem of the day on her first attempt (her only mistake of the day). Michael came second with Diane in third. Sadly Ben Moon sat the final round out but Stu Littlefair stepped into Ben’s place and provided some great entertainment climbing bloc #4 by starting upside down! Unconventional, but seemingly effective and a definite crowd-pleaser. Martin Smith came in first with Ethan Walker in second and wild-card Stu picking up third.

A cracking day all round – here some snaps…

DSC_5538_low res.jpgDSC_5588b_low res.jpgDSC_5565b_low res.jpgDSC_5531_low res.jpgDSC_5567_low res.jpgDSC_5575_low res.jpgDSC_5609_low res.jpgDSC_5620_low res.jpgDSC_5624_low res.jpgDSC_5629a_low res.jpgDSC_5643_low res.jpgDSC_5646a_low res.jpgDSC_5655a_low res.jpgDSC_5653a_low res.jpgDSC_5671_low res.jpgDSC_5682_low res.jpgDSC_5694_low res.jpgDSC_5700_low res.jpgDSC_5706_low res.jpgDSC_5709_low res.jpg

 

Posted in Bouldering, Events

2013 Captured

Twenty Thirteen is behind us now for sure and I’ve been working hard to clear the decks and get the ship ready for 2014. Wrapping up 2013 photographically means putting last year’s shots both in perspective and into the archive.

If figures were the only metric, then I had was one heck of a year in 2013; 7,500 images totalling 263 GB of disk space – the largest volume of images I’ve ever shot in a year. Whilst the bulk were captured using my D800, some were taken with my Sony RX100, my go-to, shirt pocket compact. File sizes from the RX100 are pretty big (20MB) but nothing compared to the files (36MB) off the D800.  It’s a good job that hard-drive space is relatively cheap!

However, 2013 stands out in my mind as significant for entirely different reasons. Firstly, that the better weather broadened the possible scoop of climbing subjects/locations as many of the crags dried out during the summer. The better weather also meant that it was possible to include some of the cracking scenic backdrops into the images which in turn widened composition possibilities. Finally, I was also able to push the boundaries back a bit on my usual subjects by shooting a wider gambit of sports.

Winnats Pass_DSC_7118January into February are often about snow and ice and 2013 was no exception. A wintery snap in late January plastered the Dark Peak in snow. Returning from a family walk with the dog, a lone winter boulderer rocked up to Mother Cap and it seemed rude not to grab a snap or two. In as many seconds, the first shot for the 2014 calendar was in the bag – result! Farther west, Mam Tor and Winnats Pass were striking, if sombre, in winter garb. The Grand Massif in February for a skiing trip was very enjoyable but in no time it was Easter and a road trip around the climbing fleshpots of France underway. Following the traditional Font stop-off, a few days each at Vanasque, St Leger and Gorge du Tarn chalked up some successes, some failures and, perhaps more importantly, some more shots for the calendar. On a less positive note, I also chalked up the first of the season’s injuries – doh! It was, however, my first visit to the Gorge du Tarn and an interesting one as well. Before I head back though I’ll work my pocket strength on the Beastmaker!

Malham is a favourite early-season venue for many. Most visitors are captivated by the seemingly blank walls; the same walls that frustrate the heck out of climbers, yet draw them repeated in. The Malham scene was noticeable in 2013 given Steve McClure added a new super desperate route above the Catwalk, Batman (F9a/+), Jordon Buys repeated Rainshadow (F9a) whilst Cry Freedom (F8c) and Batroute (Fc) were respectively red-pointed by Paul Reeve and Buster Martin, two climbers operating at opposite ends of the age spectrum.Sheffield GP_021_DSC_9934

Early summer family trips into Sherwood Forest and then north to almost the farthest northwest tip of Scotland along with the Sheffield Cliffhanger and cycling Grand Prix soaked up a good month all told but give some cracking photo opportunities. Shooting fast moving action on the Sheffield GP was an interesting (read, in-at-the-deep-end…) experience. It’s great to mix it up though and I was pretty happy with the images I captured of the town-centre race. I’ve been up to Scotland many times before but never quite so far north. Scotland really is immense and the scenery and wildlife specular. A wee hike up Ben Nevis, a drop-in at the Newtonmore Games, a visit to a Scottish Heritage Museum as well as the long hike into the far-flung golden sands of Sandwood Bay were all perfectly memorable and rewarding, but standing on the pebble spit at Cantorny Point watching the dolphins feast on the inbound Atlantic salmon in the gathering dusk is a sight that I won’t forget in a hurry!

True Moments_DSC_2112A solid month of photography saw the 2014 calendar finished and the images over the design studio. The weather was kind for once and I grabbed the opportunity to include as much of the surroundings within the images as possible. For me, a climbing shot works best when it has not only the climber and the route clearly visible but also as much of the surrounding as possible – assuming that the backdrop is of scenic merit. One of my shots which ‘speaks to me the most’ in the Climbing 2014 collection is the shot of Ben Meakin cruising the classic DWS, Electric Blue. I like the rock and the sea but it’s the sea kayak that makes the shot though for me – I totally lucked-up on that one as a group of kayaker paddled off leaving a solitary kayaker sitting peacefully facing the crag and watching Ben casually stroll up Electric Blue. I couldn’t have planned it better had I tried!

Most of my calendar shoots require considerable advance preparation in order to get everything lined up just right; right location, best light, best clothes etc.. The days themselves though are basically about going climbing – albeit I have to capture the moment. Most times though, I can turn around and see some other captivating action unfolding just behind or off camera and I manage to pick-up additional shots that are every bit as good as the calendar shots. I’ve included a selection of these as well in the 2013 Captured gallery. The shot of Paul Philips on pitch 2 of True Moments or the shot of the team on Wendigo both just fell into my lap during a lull in shoot the images of Neil Foster on Hanging out at Glastonbury. I love it when that happens!

SF_Running_DSC_3258September was racing by and with it I added some running shots to my portfolio. A climbing mate was going over to the other side (running that is…) and was opening a store here in Sheffield and needed a running image for his holding page on his website. The Green Drive was our chosen venue but the grey and somewhat grim evening we’d selected for the shoot was totally uninspiring. Suddenly however, the evening burst into life when a sky fest opened up in front of our very eyes. A single strobe was all it took to get some light where it was needed – ie on Steve’s running shoes and lower torso – and hey presto, Front Runner had it’s holding page shot and I was rather chuffed with my first running shoot! Further running shots of the Edale Skyline fell race as well as a set of Steve running off Stanage complete my running action shots from 2013. More will follow I can assure you!

London Calling_DSC_4459

Autumn was soon here and with it came a trip down south to London. The closure of the rail network following the St Jude storm inspired a long-awaited trip to the Imperial War Museum at Duxford which, I have to say, is one heck of a venue – a genuine ‘must visit’ spot. London itself, with iconic sights like the Millennium Eye or Westminster Abbey are well worth the effort – especially on a sunny day! Totally by a fluke though did we drop into King’s Cross Station as night fell – the new roof there looking simply amazing under artificial light!

 

 

 

DSC_4998_007_web resOne of the last shoots of the year was a non-climbing, family affair when Vicky, one of my older progenies graduated from uni and a very obliging Robin (of the red breast variety) posed next to her in the grounds of York Minster. I don’t do much portrait work but I reckon it’ll be a while before I get another shot that I like as much as the shot of Vicky and the Robin; a cracking end to a cracking photographic year. Here’s a link to the 2103 Captured collection. Oh, and see if you can spot the images off the RX100 – I’ll bet you can’t…

 

 

 

Posted in General

Jan 10th: A New Year (game plan)…

With 2014 well and truly established I’ve been reflecting a little on 2013, the images I captured as well as the photographic process. I often find that sifting through and filing recent images I drift off into a reflective mode. Instinctively I ask myself questions. What worked well and why? What didn’t work and why? What will I look to develop? What will I do different in the future?

It’s easy to opt for BAU (business as usual). However, if you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got! And whilst that might be the correct game plan for some circumstances it almost certainly won’t be good for others. The trick is knowing when and where to switch into a new way of working and so produce something different. Although I’m still (metaphorically) crunching the numbers on this, I feel that I’ve got the basis for my shooting sorted out. Meanwhile…

The good weather and my free time hasn’t coincide much yet this year and I’ve yet to capture any climbing action. However, I’ve been shooting some non-climbing action and that’s been insightful in its own way. Thus far, I’ve snatched three separate shoots of three disparate subjects:

Shoot#1 – An hour or so snatched in the early morning in the Peak getting shots of a ‘lone tree’ and of an inversion over the Hope Valley.

DSC_5317.jpgDSC_5346b.jpgDSC_5356_pan.jpg

Shoot#2 – Less than an hour grabbed as the sun rose on the sea front at New Brighton, Cheshire.

DSC_5383.jpgDSC_5392.jpgDSC_5396.jpgDSC_5407.jpgDSC_5417.jpg

Shoot#3 – A (chilly) hour or so poised for some northern lights action above Stanage – sadly, they didn’t show up though!

DSC_5488.jpgDSC_5493.jpgDSC_5494.jpg

It would have been very easy to ignore the opportunity to get out on every one of these occasions. I didn’t and I’m glad I didn’t. As well as a few nice images, I’ve come away with a single common thought; no matter what the outcome might be – just do it! Here’s a gallery

Posted in Photography, Scenic

Dec 16th: Last Post – oh, and Twin Pack killer deal…

Climbing 2013_December So, if you’ve not started your crimbal shopping yet (err… that’ll be me then folks!!) then you’re almost in deep do-doh… However, as Ms December (Leah Crane) from Climbing:2013 will tell you, there’s still four (on-line) shopping days left to order Climbing:2014 AND still get it in time for the big day (for UK orders) so all isn’t lost yet …

Yes folks, the elves in the dispatch department in KSP Towers will be sending out orders right up to the wire again which this year is Friday the 20th so get your calendar/year planner orders in before last knockings and the team will get said order into the system and you’ll be home and dry!! Please submit orders for all books in the KSP on-line shop by close of play on Thursday 19th for delivery pre-Xmas.

And nearly forgot, Climbing:2014 Twin Pack is now available as a killer ‘buy one, get one half price’ deal. Just the deal if you fancy a copy of Climbing:2014 for the work place as well as for home, or if you wanna say thanks to your bessie mate for all his/her top belaying all year. Click through here to go straight to the Twin Pack – that’ll put a smile on their face…DSC_9062

Posted in General, KSP Publications