Category Archives: Bouldering

Some Top Blocs in North Wales

With temperature dipping into single figures and a three-day high pressure system it was a no-brainer; pack the pads and head out west to North Wales.

Mark picking a pocket or two on Fagin at Clogwyn y Bustach

We figured we needed to avoid the northerly wind and save skin and energy so our two-part plan was pretty simple – start late on the Saturday and head to Clogwyn y Bustach above Llyn Gwynant and hope that Snowdon would act as a giant wind breaker.  Walking-in mid-afternoon we thought we’d blown it but once inside the tree it was indeed sheltered – if however – a tad on the damp side. Bustach was predominantly dry though and kept us entertained for a good couple of hours. Fagan and Sick Happy (Stand) couldn’t be more different if they tried – great blocs though, for different reasons! Fagan, by the way, feels like a limestone pocketed wall and it seems almost impossible not to mouth the words from the famous song whilst pulling up the ever improving pockets!

Mark Sick Happy at Bustach again

Sunday was Sheep Pen day; what a location it is too high above the A5 as it snakes towards the Ogwen Valley. And what rock too – totally lush; defo one of the best locations in North Wales which is just as well as pretty much all the blocs put up a fair bit of resistance and will need more than a few trip up there! The Pinch has to be one of the best and aesthetic looking problems anywhere but the Main Block has got to have a lifetime of pulling on it for most peeps! It was pretty primo connies all day; the snow was still on the tops when we’d gonnen back to the car late afternoon so it clearly wasn’t overly warm all day!

Ogwen at close of play Sunday

We woke on Monday morning to a frost on the ground so we figured a sunny venue would be in order. Craig Llyn, a new bouldering venue on the shores of LLyn Dinas sounded just fine; the east-facing roadside location a total bonus. Voie Normale and Voie Normale SS were just what we wanted to get going. Whether Voie Normale SS is one of the best Font 7a in North Wales is open to discussion but it is defo very good if a little more accommodating for the taller climber.

Pete Robbins warming-up on Elephantitus

Suitably warmed-up, we shifted up the road to Elephantitus. It’s a stunning location and whilst it might only have a limited number of blocs the quality is absolutely stonking. Elephantitus is another candidate for ‘the best Font 7a in North Wales’. Part way through our session local Pete Robbins rocked up and proceeded to polish off the project link starting up Going Down on an Elephant in what couldn’t only be described as double-quick time to give Bucking Bronco Font 7c – nice work Pete!

Pete crushing the final moves on his latest addition Bucking Bronco Elephantitus

Great weather, great blocs, great trip…

photocrati gallery

Also posted in Photography

2016 British Bouldering Championships @ Cliffhanger

2016 British Bouldering Championships at Cliffhanger

July 14th; 2016

Shauna Coxsey and Matt Cousins lifted the 2016 senior British Bouldering Championship titles at the Cliffhanger Festival in Sheffield last weekend.

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Shauna Coxsey – MBE, 2016 British Bouldering and World Cup Champion

 

 

 

 

Shauna Coxsey’s form throughout 2016 has been little short of phenomenal. Having already secured the Bouldering World Cup with the final event still to be held, Shauna went into the BBC as odds-on favourite. That she totally dominated the women’s event at the BBC’s came as no surprise to anyone. But for a single problem in the semi-finals Shauna flashed every other problem brushing many aside as though they were just warm-ups.

The men’s event however was a little more finely balanced. Dave Barrans scored a perfect round in the qualifiers flashing all five blocs. It was however, Matt Cousins – runner-up in the qualification round – that came to the fore in the semi-finals and finals to take the top slot with a deserved and consistent performance.

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Matt Cousins – 2016 British Bouldering Champion

The Cliffhanger Festival – in its ninth year – has become a regular feature of the summer scene here in Sheffield. For the first time however, the festival was held in the city centre rather that out in either Millhouses or Graves Parks. Sharing the stage with a running, biking and hiking hub, the city’s outdoor fraternity were well-served and turned out in force despite the changeable weather.

The setting team – Percy Bishton, Andy Long, Jamie Cassidy, Rob Napier and Ben Meeks – came up with the goods setting a whole raft of interesting-looking, spectator-friendly blocs for the competitors.

The women’s results were:

1st Shauna Coxsey; 2nd Tara Hayes; 3rd Leah Crane; 4th Michaele Tracey; 5th Gracie Martin;  6th Jo Neame

The men’s results were:

1st Matt Cousins; 2nd Nathan Phillips; 3rd Orrin Coley; 4th Billy Ridal; 5th James Garden; 6th Dave Barrans

Finally, here’s a selection of shots from the finals…

 

BBC_2016_Finalists checking out the blocsBBC_2016_Finalists checking out the blocsBBC_2016_Leah Crane wrestling with the crux sloper on W1BBC_2016_Jo Neame hunting the sweet spot on the sloper on W1BBC_2016_Tara Hayes staying low on the sloper on W1BBC_2016_What sloper? It's a pinch not a sloper says Shauna Coxsey (MBE)BBC_2016_Billy Ridal getting into the groove on M2BBC_2016_Jo Neame wrestling with W2BBC_2016_Billy Ridal progressing on M2BBC_2016_Tara Hayes nearing the top of W2BBC_2016_Orrin Coley in the midst of the blankness that was M3BBC_2016_Jo Neame on the tufatastic W3BBC_2016_Tara Hayes on W3BBC_2016_Shauna Coxsey crushing W3BBC_2016_Shauna again on W3BBC_2016_Gracie Martin on W4BBC_2016_Michaela Tracy on W4BBC_2016_Orrin Coley sizing up the dyno on M4BBC_2016_James Garden launching one on M4BBC_Dave Barrans on/off M4BBC_2016_Nathan Phillips landing the crux dyno on M4BBC_2016_Matt Cousins letting rip on M4BBC_2016_Matt Cousins latching M4BBC_2016_And another win to Shauna Coxsey after flashing W4BBC_2016_Women PodiumBBC_2016_Mens PodiumBBC_2016_2016 scoreboard... the envy of the world!

Footnote: I wrongly commented in my 2015 Cliffhanger report that last year’s Cliffhanger was the ninth – it was in fact ‘only’ the eighth.

Also posted in Climbing, Events, Photography

July 13th 2015 British Bouldering Championships at Cliffhanger

The best bouldering comp climbers in the country went head-to-head over the weekend in Millhouse’s Park Sheffield in the British Bouldering Championship and the action was pretty captivating. After three intense rounds, Shauna Coxsey and Tyler Landman collected the male and female titles respectively.

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Shauna Coxsey – cruising to another victory

Amazingly, it was the ninth season for the Cliffhanger Outdoor Festival and as usual Matt Heason and his team had done an amazing job of arranging the event as well as the weather which– Sunday morning excepted – was on its best behaviour for once! I’ve always been lucky enough to get along to Cliffhanger and photo the climbing competition. It’s a frantic, full-on, run-and-gun affair and this year was no exception – although for the first time the climbing wall was housed under a bespoke scaffold-based construction clad with white tarps. Previously the wall had been within a dark and dingy ‘big-top tent’ and photographing the action was always a massive technical challenge in which the photographer wielding the biggest and most mobile lighting units usually came away with the best results. This year was fantastic by comparison – the massive white tarps acting a giant diffuser casting nice soft light on the bouldering wall. As usual the setting team dished-up a veritable mix of the delicate and powerful. Competition climbers are so strong these days that it’s not enough to go small and steep – hence there was some dirty vert and blob-city action amongst the blocs as well as some dynos and down-and-out techie stuff in the corners. Most noticeable about the competitors was the number of young guns within their midst – many emerging from the junior classes and looking – if not baying – for success. It’ll only be a matter of time before they come away with the metalwork!

The final results were as follows:

Men 1 Tyler Landman 2 Dave Barrans 3 James Garden 4 Orrin Coley 5 Nathan Phillips 6 Billy Ridal

Women 1 Shauna Coxsey 2 Fanny Gilbert 3 Leah Crane 4 Diane Merrick 5 Jennifer Wood 6 Molly Thompson-Smith

Finally, here’s a gallery of images from the finals. Hope you enjoy…

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Also posted in Events, Photography

2014 Captured

Ridiculously belatedly, I know – glaciers have moved faster – I’ve finally pulled together a gallery of images from 2014! Post processing your images take forever – or so it seems – but notwithstanding it’s always worth reviewing your work. Not least, it’s worth asking what works and why and what doesn’t work and why and pulling together a gallery of images is one way of doing just that.

1402_DSC_5417In my round-up for 2013 I said that I’d shot some 7,500 images totalling 263 GB of space and that had trumped my efforts in previous years. Well, 2014 blew those figs clean out of the water; c.13,500 images shot consuming c.454 GB of disk – nearly twice my previous max! Quantity isn’t, nor has it, nor will it ever be a measure of artistic value or quality but – to coin a phase – the more I practice the better my images get – arguably! As an aside it also shows that myself and most other photogs have data handling issues equivalent to companies many times the size of our businesses. Quite literally, digi photogs are awash in data.

Photographically, 2014 was an extremely interesting and different year to those that went before it. I continued to shoot climbing images – as I figure I always well. The bulk of these however were in the Peak District – only a single overseas trip to Riglos being the sole exception. Cycling shots were up for sure – hardly surprising given that La Grand Depart happened on the doorstep. A week-long summer trip facilitated some UK surfing shots but the big newbie in my portfolio was trail running. Vertebrate Publishing were in the final stages of a trail running guidebook for the Peak District and our paths collided. By the time the guide went to print in the autumn I’d shot images on trails all over the White and Dark Peak. As you’ll see, trail running is well represented in the gallery accompanying this post – though more of that anon.

2014 kicked off with some spectacular dawn light on Merseyside. The New Brighton Lighthouse, formally known as Perch Rock Lighthouse, is a favourite1412_DSC01725 of mine and a few thousand other photogs as well! Originally constructed in 1827, the current lighthouse ceased operation in 1973.Since then it has been maintained by the Kingham family. Reports of Northern Light activity flooded the media in the second week of January – so much so that I donned suitable attire and jointed the throngs of night revellers at Stanage for whatever meagre glimpse we might get of said NL spectacular. In the end, most folks bailed an hour or so past mid-night with so much as seeing anything other than car headlights and a light-polluted (admittedly) clear night!

The main event in February was F-BO14 – an open bouldering comp at The Foundry. It produced some surprises along the way. Against some stiff opposition a certain Mr Ben Moon qualified for the final which was absolutely great to see that he could still hold his own in the rarefied air of top-flight bouldering comps. By March the weather was heading rapidly into spring and limestone action at Stoney was underway as well as some grit. It was great getting out again especially as I was in the midst of a climbing shoe review for CLMBER magazine.

1436_DSC_9294A four-day trip to Riglos in late March/early April felt like the real start to the season. And what an amazing route Fiesta de los Biceps is – absolutely knock-out; c.300 m of stunning climbing up unbelievable steep rock. What not to like? Back home after that, the flora was springing (sorry…) into life everywhere. April and May went rushing past in a blur with trips to Wallasey included the unexpected bonus of ‘finding’ The Breck as well as the more usual haunts in Chee Dale and Stanage providing photo opportunities. Farther north, a trip to Northumberland – with excellent weather as usual – was a real bonus. We based ourselves near to Dunstanburgh Castle which is just spectacular as are the nearby rock/boulder strewn coast line.

July, of course, was all about La Tour, what a great event that was – again bags of photo ops. It’s a cliché of course, but I couldn’t resist a snap of the yellow jersey as ‘it’ came past. And following that was the Sheffield Criterium – a city centre race where the pro teams and the best amateurs hack round a loop flat-out for an hour in a first-past-the-post race wins. A brilliant race and another great night out with the camera.

 

 

August and the school summer hols provided the opportunity for me to dip my toes photographically at least into a totally new genre – concerts; specifically Camp Bestival at Lulworth. It did occur to me that I might sneak off for a cheeky DWS or two but the festival was full-on that half-baked idea withered on the vine. What a great opportunity to add some new material to my portfo1467_DSC_4788lio as well as catching some great performances too. The week after we washed-up on the Devon coast at Bude intent on sampling the surf and some Devonian bloc action – both were rather good as it turned out. A trip down to Colchester later in the summer hols offered another opportunity to catch the Red Arrows and an iconic Spitfire. August bank holiday saw us back up north in the Whitby area. As well as a trip round Go Ape in the Dalby Forest we nabbed a few waterfalls and night scenes on the coast. I also managed to fulfil a long-term objective – photographing a field full of fresh cut/baled hay which doesn’t sound much but it seems to have taken me a while to get the tick.

 

1471_DSC_0778Starting in September I dropped into running mode; shooting trail running to be exact for a guide on trailing running in the Peak District. I’d shot runners before – but always as part of events and never as stand-alone image to illustrate a book. The brief was to shoot the runners at various stages around the routes and to shoot couples running wherever possible. With twenty odd routes to shoot in about as many days, it was an interesting challenge. Shooting a single runner as its own challenges but adding in another runner into the equation takes it to another level. Imagine shooting fast moving action and trying to get a good body shape as well as a good composition showing the routes is OK, but getting two runners to run together and look half decent is… well try it and you see what I mean! Fortunately the weather was stunning last autumn and I got the job done to deadline – just! Plus I got to go to some places I’d never been to before in the Peak which was brilliant. I also got to see and photo some great wildlife too.

And when I wasn’t shooting running, I was out climbing and snapping climbing action too – that seemed a doddle in comparison to shooting two runners. Autumn seemed to pass very quickly – the colours were beautiful but seemingly gone in no time and then it was winter, Xmas and then the New Year and then time to start over!

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To see the full gallery of 2014 Captured click thru here

 

 

 

 

Also posted in Aviation, Climbing, Cycling, Events, Photography, Running

F-BO15: And the winners are…

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Also posted in Events

April 21th: Mojo Rising (Old skool bouldering at The Breck)…

I remember the magazine images clearly. They conveyed an urban, gritty feel to the climbing which looked distinctly esoteric – a locals’ local, albeit with some gnarly testpieces. Over the years I’d never been to the crag nor had I ever spoken to anyone else who has climbed there – or, perhaps more accurately, I’ve never spoken to anyone who wanted to admit they’d climbed there! Thirty odd years had passed since the magazine article and I’d all but forgotten about it then, flicking though Grimer’s Boulder Britain guide, there it was on page 184 and less than a mile from where the in-laws lived! “Yeah, we used to climb on Granny Rock as kids” said my wife to my surprise. I added it to the list of places to check-out – at some point…

My opportunity came yesterday on Easter Sunday. I think that Easter is a great time to grab a power top-up and Fontainebleau (where else) would head my list of venues – given the choice. It’s fair to say that The Breck would be a good deal lower down my list. However,  as we’d pitched-up on The Wirral at the in-laws it was either travel and go indoors or nip down to The Breck. I had little more than an hour or so to spare so it wasn’t a hard decision – The Breck it was.

Grimer’s intro is classic: “The holy grail of graffiti and urban chic with highball crimping and ghosts of old heroes”. The sun was shining and the bluebells were out and it seemed a tad surreal almost – a climbing retreat amidst such domesticity. Situation wise, I couldn’t help but draw parallels with Sissy Crag in Sydney – but let’s stop right there! The delightfully named Bluebell Wall seemed the obvious place to start. Think Burbage North size-wise but add a concrete topping and then some railings immediately behind. Warming-up was interesting; Bluebell Crack, Fagan and Melancholy all seemed about the same grade despite being 4+, 4+ and 6a respectively. They were high too – this was real old skool bouldering especially as I was travelling light and was sans pad! The final twist was that you either had to down-climb the problem or traverse along the top and then drop-down an easier problem; good for the head and a bit extra mileage!

Bluebell Wall @ The BreckJust opposite, Granny Rock looked tempting – and lowball! The blocky front face was covered in easy ledges but the back-side had a handful of problems including a couple of traverses and some pretty impressive graffiti! It seemed an unlikely place for some quality climbing but all four blocs give just that – Positron Traverse at 6b stood out. Amongst the graffiti I spotted a collection of shabby pockets leading from the middle of the wall to the left arête. It’s an entertaining little link and it soaked up all my remaining time. I couldn’t leave though, and nor should anyone else visiting for the first time, without nipping over and have a look at Overhanging Wall – home to Al Rouse’s Direct 7b+ and Steve Haston’s Dyno 7c+. Both looked good, shockingly high and distinctly old skool – a remarkable testament to the standards achieved yonks ago. Grimer’s descriptions were bang on the money.

Visits to the in-laws will never be the same again!

Mojo rising - selfie of me on Granny RockCrimping the graffiti

Also posted in Photography

Feb 12th: F-BO14 – not just another boudering comp…

Saturday the 8th February saw a fair few of the UK’s bouldering elite gather at the Foundry in Sheffield for the F-BO14 bouldering competition. Since it first opened its doors, the Foundry has long been the scene for climbing comps – those of us who have been regular visitors over the years will remember the then sixteen year old Chris Sharma appearing in a Foundry bouldering comp back in the 90’s! F-BO14, is the latest in that series, and what a cracking event it turned out to be too…

The morning qualification round saw the elite, the good and the would-be’s all rubbing shoulders on no less than 25 problems – all carefully devised and crafted by the setting team which comprised the regular Foundry setter, Rob Napier, Percy Bishton (on sabbatical from The Works) and guest setter and strong-man/ex-British bouldering champ, Ned Freehally; nothing if not a strong, stout and sly setting trio! Collectively, they served up a veritable cordon beau menu of problems. One problem had just three holds arranged in a horizontally manner rather than upwards! Challenging the paradigm indeed!

Emerging from the quallies as the lady finalists were Shauna Coxsey, Michaela Tracy, Diane Merrick, Katie Maxwell, Gracie Martin and Ella Russel. The six-man testosterone-laden crew comprised Thom Arnold, Nathan Phillips, Cailen Harker, Martin Smith and Ben Moon. Yep, that’s THE Ben Moon who is back on the scene and pulling down with remarkable determination once more. The stand-out performance from qualification was supplied by Shauna who flashed every single problem to return a perfect score-card!

The finals were run using the familiar bouldering comp format – two climbers (one male, one female) both climbing at once on two problems over a four minute slot before back to isolation. Both legs were pretty closely contested. Shauna Coxsey emerged in top place – though she was pushed hard by Michaele and Diane. Shauna dropped the very last problem of the day on her first attempt (her only mistake of the day). Michael came second with Diane in third. Sadly Ben Moon sat the final round out but Stu Littlefair stepped into Ben’s place and provided some great entertainment climbing bloc #4 by starting upside down! Unconventional, but seemingly effective and a definite crowd-pleaser. Martin Smith came in first with Ethan Walker in second and wild-card Stu picking up third.

A cracking day all round – here some snaps…

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Also posted in Events

Nov 19th: It’s started…

With five weeks to go before Chrimball, the blue skies and crisp ground frost on Sunday morning signalled that the weather had definitely turned and that the 2012/13 grit season was on us. And for most folks it’s not a moment to soon given the lousy wet summer we’ve just had to endure…

The fabled minty conditions were wide-spread in the Peak yesterday and hence the car-parks and crags were (not surprisingly) pretty busy by mid-morning. In search of a bit of solitude as well as some early season, confidence-boosting, never-done-before ticks, I headed for The Walnut below Baslow Edge. I’d been wanting to get there for ages but it had never quite happened. The bouldering bible (Peak Bouldering by Vertebrate Publishing) warns of a difficult approach through bracken to get to The Walnut. Boy, they’re not wrong! Thrashing through (at times) chest high undergrowth my legs were soaked by the time I’d got there – not quite the start to the day I’d planned but not the worst thing that had ever happened to me. Next time I’ll read the guide a bit more closely, that way I’ll stand a fighting chance of finding the path on the walk-in.

  

There’s only 15 odd problems at The Walnut but most are well worth doing. The Walnut is in fact two boulders scrunched up close together giving the impression that it’s a single bloc.  The easier problems are on the (then) sunny south-facing side of the southern bloc with The Walnut (Font 6c) taking the best-in-class prize. It’s something of a gift at that grade – but let’s not tell Ru that or he’ll knock the grade back in the next guide! All the other problems on this face are straight-ups – typically from sitters. The rock is as rough as it gets too so if you’re popping for holds aim well. The hardest problem on this face, Whip Me, Whip Me (Font 6c+) from Mark (Zippy) Pretty starts by tunnelling in right underneath the hanging groove. The hardest part of this problem TBH seems to be keeping your ar*e off the floor whilst swinging around on sloping shelves and it’s definitely NOT a gift at this grade. And don’t worry, I will be having a word with Ru about this one when I see him next.

The north-facing side of The Walnut houses predominately harder problems – up to Font 7c+ – and it climbs quite different too. Little Richard (Font 7a) is short, hard and surprisingly snatchy and a great little problem. The harder stuff on that face all involve slopers and small crimps and needed way more skin than I had left. Least that was my excuse for leaving for an early bath. Surprisingly, two other teams rocked-up whilst I was there so it’s obvious that The Walnut is more popular than I’d thought. Satisfied that I’d got a few ticks and clicks, I headed home as the sun started to sink. I felt I’d gotten my grit season off to a half decent start and hope you did too…

 

Looking north from The WalnutThere is a path in there somewhereNutjob (Font 6a) #01Nutjob (Font 6a) #02Nutjob (Font 6a) #03The Eliminates Area, Curbar

Cliffhanger 2012: Two Tickets to the Gun Show…

Far from being somewhere between a damp squib and a total wash-out, the British Bouldering Championships over the weekend in Sheffield produced some thrilling climbing. Sadly, the near biblical rain which poured down last week forced Sheffield City Council to pull the plug (sic…) on Cliffhanger 2012 at the eleventh hour on Thursday, the day before the gates to Graves Park were due to open for the weekend. Thanks to Twitter and Facebook the word got out very fast but the ‘Cancelled’ notices posted over the Cliffhanger hoardings around the city made very despondent viewing for many of the Sheffield residents who have really gotten behind Cliffhanger as an event in recent years.

Being British must count for something though and despite reports earlier in the week of water pouring through the marquee and running down the bouldering wall whilst the setters were hard at work the bouldering comp survived the deluge – just. Come Saturday morning the Senior and IFSC Junior competitors arrived for isolation – under stormy skies of course! Recent Cliffhanger events had featured international World Cup bouldering events but the comp this year was strictly a home-grown affair with the British Bouldering Championships riding on the event. And given the circumstances, perhaps it was just as well.

Following the well-contested Qualifiers, which saw all the usual names get beyond the cut-off, it all came down to the four problems in the finals. The 2011 Champs Ned Feehally and Shauna Coxsey were not only through to the finals  but led their respective packs. Could they retain their titles? As usual the setters had concocted a wicked mix of problems to catch the competitors out – more slopers and volumes than ever it seemed; the simple crimp all but banished to the spare holds bin behind the wall. Two of the women’s problems took gnarly groove-lines as well.

 

As if the problems weren’t hard enough, further difficulties lay ahead for the would-be champions as head-setter, Percy Bishton, ditched his cordless impact driver for a cordless radio mic and started barracking competitors in a double-act with the official MC, Ian Smith, who valently battled the BBM (Bishton Banter Machine) all afternoon to keep the loyal crowd up to speed with the action and the whole ship on an even keel.

Whilst the male Senior Quals were especially tight, with no less than four climbers coming in joint second, the finals were real close. Gaz Parry, ex Spain, turned in a very creditable performance to come in 5th. The 2011 champ, Ned Feehally, couldn’t quite match his previous form and slipped to 4th. Messrs James Garden and Adam Watson equalled Ned’s number of top-outs of three but took fewer attempts and pulled 3rd and 2nd respectively leaving the power-house that is Dave Barrens to take top slot with successful attempts on all four problems. IRSC Male Junior’s were Nathan Phillips (1st), Luke Tilley (2nd) and Ben Norman (3rd).

The female Senior Quals by comparison produced a nice spread of positions with no ties – a setters dream. Likewise the problems in the finals split the leaders across the board as well. Sheffield’s own ladies, Katy Whittaker, Diane Merrick and Mina Leslie-Wujastik (placed 6th, 5th and 4th respectively) couldn’t quite muster the power and athleticism that Leah Crane (3rd) nor Alex Puccio (2nd) brought to the boards. However, it was Shauna Coxsey that topped the table with a maximum of four tops to maintain her current good form and scoop the top place for the second year running. IFSC Female Junior’s were Shauna Coxsey (1st), Charlotte Garden (2nd) and Jennifer Wood (3rd).

Paradoxically, Sunday saw another day of OK weather for the IFSC Youth Categories comp which was well-attended and well-contested. For a full breakdown of the result s see the BMC website http://www.thebmc.co.uk/british-bouldering-championships-2012–results.

 

Cliffhanger 2012 - Gaz Parry on his was to topping out on problem #1Cliffhanger 2012 - Dave Darrens on the final 'rock and pop' move on problem #1Cliffhanger 2012 - Leah Crane getting into the groove on problem #1Cliffhanger 2012 - Diane Merrick on the 'blue sloper volume' problem #2 from hellCliffhanger 2012 - Leah Crane taking a campus approach to problem #2Cliffhanger 2012 - Alex Puccio hiking problem #2Cliffhanger 2012_Adam Watson hanging-in on problem #3Cliffhanger 2012 - Ned Feehally heading north on problem #3Cliffhanger 2012 - Alex Puccio eyeing up her options on problem #3Cliffhanger 2012 - Leah Crane focuses on closure on problem #3Cliffhanger 2012 - Alex Puccion again closing out problem #3Cliffhanger 2012 - Shauna Coxsey stretching for the title as well as the finishing hold on problem #3Cliffhanger 2012 - Gill Peat lost in the blob-lands on problem #4Cliffhanger 2012 - Ned Feehally cranking hard for closure on problem #4Cliffhanger 2012 - IFSC Junior Female PodiumCliffhanger 2012 - IFSC Junior Male PodiumCliffhanger 2012 - Female Senior PodiumCliffhanger 2012 - Male Senior Podium

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June 26th : Nuda’s Tartan – esoteric bouldering at it’s best…

Having climbed for nearly forty years in the Peak it’s a rare day that I get to visit a new venue. After the two-day monsoon at the back end of last week my gut said, and the word on the tinterweb confirmed it, that the Peak was a wash-out. Choices seemed limited – go indoors or play a wild-card and gamble. We chose the latter which just happened to be a new venue. “It was dry yesterday” Tom offered. That was enough for me; I was persuaded. Nuda’s Tartan it was then…

It’s obvious from the get go that Nuda’s Tartan is small – there’s only a dozen problems – and in truth it certainly isn’t much to look at. Nuda’s is nothing if not steep though; in fact there’s not a single problem that doesn’t involve a roof at some stage so pack your best guns with you if you’re gonna venture down there. It has the strangest rock as well, a bobbly limestone which is pretty darned sharp. Slapping definitely isn’t recommended as you’ll soon be heading home with blood dripping from ripped fingers. There’s plenty of pockets knocking about so it’s not a bad spot to get a bit of pocket-pulling in if you’re off to the Jura. Some of the problems are currently generously graded – read soft – but others aren’t so it makes for an interesting day. There’s even one problem, Slot Machine Font 7a+, that is mainly (or should that be manly?) on jams – a gift at the current grade, assuming you’re a time-served grit git.

Interestingly for such a small and off the beaten track venue, there were a few other teams there at different stages of the day. The vib was that the problems (generally) all climbed pretty well. Nuda’s is classic esoteric venue but (apparently) it’s generally dry and as such it’s well worth adding to the list of possible venues if it’s been dumping. If you’ve not come across it before Nuda’s is covered in the new Peak Bouldering guide. Please read/follow the access info though.

Joe and Tom demo the hanging prow that is the classy Tarantula Font 7c…

 

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