July 16th : Lower Sharpnose – The Little Big Trad Venue of Devon…

August’s Edition of Climber is hot off the presses and it comes with a destination piece from yours truly on one of the best single-pitch, seaside trad climbing venues we have in theUK– yeph, I’m talking Lower Sharpnose…

  

For years I’d blasted down to Cornwall getting, but ignoring, a ‘I should go too Lower Sharpnose’ feeling as I motored past Okehampton on the A30. Eventually, the opportunity came to check-out the Culm Coast for a calendar shoot and Adam, Kev and myself met up last summer and went down there for a weekend. The short walk past the listening post had been superseded – a long walk-in along the coast now being the order of the day. It’s not really a long walk – but it sure felt it carrying both climbing and photography kit. High tide that weekend was at noon so a late start – followed inevitable with a late finish – was imposed upon us. It did afford a lie-in so it wasn’t entirely disagreeable and we did (just) make last orders at the pub as well so again, that wasn’t a total disaster.

Over the years I’ve sometimes found that crags that are hyped-up don’t always quite live up to expectations – not so Lower Sharpnose however; the crag is truly unique and the climbing to die for. Well maybe not quite, but it is pretty flippin’ good. Lower Sharpnose isn’t especially big – quite small in fact – but IMHO it’s a package that hangs together very well indeed.

But there I go starting to give you the full SP. If you want the full low-down at the moment you’ll have to pick up a copy of the mag. Here’s a gallery of images to whet your appetite…

Kevin Avery on Out of the Blue, E2 5b on North Fin, Lower SharpnoseKevin Avery on Out of the Blue, E2 5b on North Fin, Lower SharpnoseAdam Lincoln abbing into the base of North Fin, Lower SharpnoseAdam Lincoln on Sea Green E4 5c North Fin, Lower SharpnoseKevin Avery climbing around the base of Middle Fin stealing a march on the outgoing tideAdam Lincoln on Pacemaker E5 6a Middle Fin, Lower SharpnoseAdam Lincoln on Fay E4 5c Middle Fin, Lower SharpnoseKevin Avery on Pacemaker E5 6a Middle Fin, Lower Sharpnose

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