Essential Beta

How to get there:

Rocher Canon is just west of the D1421e, the Fontainebleau to Melun road. Driving from Font it takes less than 10 minutes tops to the car-park.

When to Visit:

Optimal conditions are most likely between autumn and spring; poor friction in the summer is going to increase the effort needed.

Where to Stay/Shop:

Most climbers stay in one of the numerous gites in the area. Those that don’t head to one of the Formula 1 in the area (Melun is the nearest) or camp (les Trois Pignons). Supplies are readily available in Fontainebleau itself or at the shopping mall north of Chailly-en-Bierre.

Which Guide:

7+8 by Bart van Raaij is the definitive guide for hard bouldering in the forest. The second edition, published
2008, contains no less than 1789 straightup problems - a life-time of bouldering.

Photos:

Main: John Welford on 35.16
Power (Font 7c).

Secondary: John again
squeaking his shoes ready for lift-off.

Download:

April 2008 Factfile.pdf

Rocher Canon...

is a little off the beaten track in the north-east of the forest at Fointainebleau. It’s not likely to be the first area you’ll visit if you are new to Font, but it is nevertheless a cracking venue and very much worth a visit or three. Of course there’s all the usual ingredients, boulders and trees, but somehow Rocher Canon has a different (better?) feel than many of the usual Font venues. Perhaps it’s the way the boulders are spread-out over the hillside in and amongst the trees that makes it feel the way it does. Not only is it pretty
good for easy grade climbing but there’s more than enough hard stuff to keep most folks busy for a while and although it is popular rarely does it get rammed like the nearby Bas Curvier. If you fancy something a bit different, give Rocher Canon a go – I bet you end up going back time and time again.

Featured Route(s):

36.15 Power (Font 7c) is very Font thanks to the jump-start and the direct finish which is the power bit. Avoid skulking off leftwards, that’s 36.15 (Font 7a) – a fine problem in it’s own right - but you’re there to do the business so bear-down!

Tips:

Pull hard - it might be your lucky day.

Clips:

A pad and enough power is all you’ll need.

‘Must Do’s’:

Chasseur de Prises (Font 7a)
is the crag classic – an uber bulging wall with a fiendish toe-hook start and powersapping
slopers.
Les Calins de Kim (Font 7a) is
another classic – a super-sloping mantelshelf an
uncomfortable distance off the
deck!

Alternatives:

Bas Curvier is the nearest major
crag and always good for a visit
though if you are looking for
somewhere quieter head to
Apremont.

Rest Days:

A rest day in Font; you have to be kidding! If it ain’t raining – you should be out climbing. If it’s raining then that’s different so try any, or all, the cafés in the area. Culture vultures should head to the palace in Font itself.