Essential Beta

How to get there:

Fight your way past Marseille and then head to the University at Suigiton. Park (next to the Pizza van!) in the car-park at the end of the road and then follow your nose (and guidebook instructions) into Suigiton proper. Allow nearly an hour for driving around Marseille at peak times and 20 mins for the walk-in.

When to Visit:

Avoid summer like the plaque – it’s way too hot! Winter visits are favoured but spring and autumn days can be good depending upon cloud cover etc..

Where to Stay/Shop:

Accommodation exists in the area though many people stay in gites up in Provence and drive in daily. Locally, Formula 1’s are in and around Marseille.

Which Guide:

A variety of local guides are produced by various publishers, Ed Sud included. Overview details are included in various selected guides and a topo is available at www.cragx.com. For a good all-round info source see www.marseille-tourisme.com/en

Photos:

Main: Yuji Hirayama captured ‘cruising’ on Rastata (F8b).

Secondary: Dai Koyamada is trying out Electroman, an unclimbed project.

Download:

December 2007 Factfile.pdf

Grotte du L’Our…

is, as the name suggests, a cave down in the south of France. Located in the Calanques near Marseille, Grotte du L’Our, is a little-big crag of considerable climbing significance. As one of the gems in the Suigiton area of the Calanques, the Grotte sucks in the good and the great. Surprisingly though, it isn’t a massive cave in the modern Spanish style, not that you would expect some quite that vulgar in France, but size isn’t everything is it? Think of it as a cross between the Peak’s two Cornices, i.e. Cheedale and Water-cum-Jolly, and you’ll be somewhere in the right ball-park. Throw into the mix a stunning view over the Med, Malham-style quality rock, then remove the bulk of the seepage problems and ramp-up the weather and you’d just about get the idea!

Featured Problems:

Rastata (F8b) is, like many of the routes in the Grotte, a series of overhangs interspersed with short and merely vertical walls. Watching Yuji on it was an unforgettable experience, not least because we just couldn’t tell if he was onsighting or redpointing! Yuji’s countryman, Dai, was quite engrossed in the open project, Electroman.

Tips:

Given the predominant nature of the routes in the Grotte a competence on roofs is a must – that and good body tension will should see you in with at least a fighting chance.

Clips:

A standard sport climbing rack will suffice.

‘Must Do’s’:

There’s no shortage of classics at the Grotte; Massey Ferguson (F8b+) and Ysengrin (F8a) included. On paper, Un Instant dans le Vent (F7b+) is the easiest route on the crag – don’t expect a stroll though.

Alternatives:

Paro de Toit is the nearest crag of note; a long overhanging wall liberally studded with many classics. With fewer roofs than Grotte du L’Our, it’s perhaps a more ‘friendly’ or ‘conventional’ crag – certainly it has more easier routes that Grotte du L’Our.

Rest Days:

The Calanques offer great walking and exploring opportunities as well as chillin’ spots by the seaside, eg. Cassis. For those bent on exploring the wider area, the hills and beautiful villages of Provence are a little more than an hour away by car. Aix en Provence in particular, is highly recommended.