Essential Beta

How to get there:

From the A659 Otley road, head north into the Slaidburn Forrest on the B6451 past Lindley Wood Reservoir. Park at the top of the hill in a small roadside lay-by and follow a good path into the trees until you see the antennae on the left. The Hunter’s Roof is clearly visible on the left on the top of the hillside.

When to Visit:

Autumn through Spring would be the traditional time for best conditions. That said, it is perfectly possible to get decent nick on a cool summer day. Watch out for condensation on the X Bloc in the trees though.

Where to Stay/Shop:

Facilities are limited locally but accommodation and food are available in nearby Otley. If it’s climbing gear you are after, it’s back to Leeds for the bigger/better selections.

Which Guide:

Yorshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol2 (soon to be published by Total Climbing) is the brand new guidebook expected spring 2009. Other than that, check out the on-line topo guide at www.yorkshiregrit.co.uk.

Photos:

Main: Tom Peckitt on The Hunter’s Roof (Font 7c).

Secondary: Dave Barrans also on The Hunter’s Roof.

Download:

December 2008/2009 Factfile.pdf

Hunter’s Stone…

is one of the new ‘must visit’ venues in the Yorkshire Dales. Until recently The Hunter’s Stone was ‘hidden’ within a heavily forested area but once the trees had gone it was a different story and Tom Peckitt was in for the kill as quick as a flash. It’s a grand location high on a hillside not that far from the great climbing venue that is Almscliffe. Unlike Almscliffe however, the climbing at The Hunter’s Stone isn’t particularly extensive. However it more than makes up for its lack of size by the quality of the climbing. There are, providing you are a lateral thinker, similarities with the Cul de tete du Chien at Fontainebleau – impressive rock formations amidst open areas of nothingness! Meanwhile, back on earth, The Hunter’s Roof might be the #1 stand-out feature at The Hunter’s Stones but there is another bloc, X Wall, deep within the (remaining) woods which has some classic problems. Go check it out – it’s well worth it!

Featured Problem:

The Hunter’s Roof (Font 7c) is one heck of a cool feature; an overhanging cobra-head roof on the end of an otherwise pretty unremarkable bloc. Rounded nothings and obligatory heel hooks lead out to the lip and the crux. Grab as much of the arête as possible, turn the lip and quickly finish up the final crack to nail one of the best new problems around.

Tips:

Heel hooks and body tension will come in handy, plus the ability to ‘guppy’ the arête. One final point; the grit at The Hunter’s Stone is rough stuff so make sure you are starting out with decent finger pads.

Clips:

A couple of bouldering mats are all you need.

‘Must Do’s’:

There’s nothing else on this bloc that get close to The Hunter’s Roof for quality so head into the woods and get along to the X Wall and try the likes of X-Calibre (Font 8a) or the stand-up (Font 7b).

Alternatives:

As stated earlier, the bouldering at The Hunter’s Stone isn’t that extensive so it’s over to nearby Almscliffe or Caley if you are thirsty for more action. Brimham, to the north is, of course, the land of the uber wacky rock formations.

Rest Days:

The nearby Yorkshire Dales has plenty of opportunities for active outdoor folks; walking and mountain biking topping the list of obvious activities. Culture vultures could head to Harrogate or one of the stately homes in the area such as Harewood House.