Essential Beta

How to get there:

From the A55, the Chester to Bangor coast road, head into Llandudno and then follow signs for the Great Orme/Marine Drive. Once through the toll booth, park on the left by Pariseillas Cave and head down the ‘green slope of death’ opposite to sea-level and stroll along the rocky shoreline to the crag.

When to Visit:

LPT gets the sun in the morning so plan accordingly. Seepage does affect some routes at LPT as well but the crag is often quite climbable in the depths of winter. High temps in summer often create greasy conditions.

Where to Stay/Shop:

There are a plethora of hotels, B&B’s and mobile home sites in the area though most climbers stay in Llanberis Pass area and drive over.

Which Guide:

North Wales Limestone (published Rockfax 1997) has extensive coverage of The Ormes . North Wales Rock (published 2006 by Groundup) also covers The Orrmes. An on-line topo exists at www.cragx.com.

Photos:

Main: Neil Gresham on The Battle of the Little Big Orme (F8a+).

Secondary: The magnificent ‘big’ Little Orme and the ever-popular LLandudno Pier.

Download:

July 2008 Factfile.pdf

Lower Pen Trwyn...

a.k.a. LPT is one of the major sport climbing honey-pots of the UK. It isn’t the biggest crag by any means, though size isn’t everything, but it has been in the public spotlight ever since Ben Moon did the UK’s first F8a, Statement of Youth, back in 1984. Nearly 25 year’s later, LPT is still firmly on the ‘must visit’ list of UK sport climbing venues. During the intervening years many of LPT’s routes have become essential rites of passage for young/developing sport climbers. Today, Neil Carson’s Big Bang (F9a) is the hardest route at LPT and for those looking for a tough challenge this could well be the route to go for. That said, even Ben Moon described this one as “sick hard”, so only the very best need apply. Notwithstanding Big Bang, there are numerous other lines to have a pop at, some of which have more accommodating grades such as Skin Game (F6a+). Whatever grade you climb at, LPT has plenty to keep most people busy for a while!

Featured Route:

Climbed back in 1990 by Chris Plant, The Battle of the Little Big Orme (F8a+) is a classic route; albeit one which doesn’t quite get the same attention that some of the other routes do. Powerful climbing leads onto a technical headwall.

Tips:

Conditions are one of the key elements for success at LPT – much more so than other venues. Go for PM sessions in the summer and AM in the winter. A breeze helps keep conditions fresh. LPT is tidal so aim for 3 to 4 hours before and after low tide.

Clips:

A standard sport rack will suffice.

‘Must Do’s’:

Statement of Youth (F8a) is a must for everyone aspiring to harder routes.

I’ve Been a Bad, Bad Boy (F7c) is another uber classic.

Alternatives:

Mussel Beach (F8a) offers rewarding campus-style moves whilst Over the Moon (F8a) is technical and strenuous with a tricky (crack) finish. Easier targets include: Night Glue (F7a+), Face Race (F7a+), Under the Boardwalk (F6c) and Skin Game (F6a+).

Rest Days:

The flesh-pots of Llandudno are unlikely to excite most climbers so a walk up Snowdon might be the alternative. Either that or go cruise the other crags in the area. Chester is the nearest centre for retail therapy.