Essential Beta

How to get there:

Leave the A515, the Ashbourne to Buxton road, about 10kms north of Ashbourne and head west towards Milldale. Park up west of the village in an excellent off-road carpark. Alternatively approach via Thorpe in the south, parking by the Izaak Walton Hotel. Allow 20 from Milldale, 30 minutes from the south from the parkiing to Ilam Rock.

When to Visit:

Ilam Rock doesn’t suffer seepage so technically it’s a year round venue. However it is usually pretty baltic in the depths of winter when the sun rarely reaches the bottom of the deep dale. Visits are therefore, best in summer.

Where to Stay/Shop:

Ashbourne is the biggest town of any size in the area.

Which Watering Hole: This being the deepest White Peak, there is no ‘climbers pub’ as such; many of the villages though have very agreeable hostelries.

Which Guide:

Two selected guides cover the area; The BMC’s On Peak Rock (2002 Re-print) and Rockfax’s Northern Limestone (2004).

Photos:

Main: Steve McClure on Eye of the Tiger (E6 6c).

Secondary: Steve warming up on The Gladiator (E4 6a).

Download:

June 2007 Factfile.pdf

Dovedale ...

appears to be something of a sleepy backwater within the White Peak when it comes to modern climbing. However, like all dormant giants, it lures in the unsuspecting with its apparent charms and then, once they are committed, it wakes, then pounces and more often than not claims the victory. The majority of Dovedale’s climbs are traditional in nature yet whilst classics abound, few are ‘easy’ for their grade. Hence many climbers leave bloodied and mauled licking their wounds and shaking their heads. The scenery is striking and hence the Dale is very popular with non climbers. Those climbing in full view of the public frequently get a taste of being ‘on show’ so visit mid-week if you are a shy and retiring type. Whenever you visit though, don’t make the mistake of underestimating the routes!

Featured Problems:

Eye of the Tiger (E6 6c) is Ron Fawcett’s uber classic from the early 80s. Stunningly impressive, hard and committing it’s seldom climbed and as such it’s a highly prized trophy. Gladiator (E4 6a), though much easier, is no less a fight nor any less a catch.

Tips:

Climb fast and climb confidently on both routes; either that or get totally pumped!

Clips:

A standard twin rope and rack of small/medium wires, with the odd smaller cam, are the norm.

‘Must Do’s’:

Adjudicator Wall (E3 5c) is the midgrade extreme of Dovedale; it’s amongst the best there is in the White Peak.

Alternatives:

Wall of Straws (E5 6b) is another excellent ‘wall’. For something a bit easier try George (E1 5b) or John Peel (HVS 5a), both of which are very good.

Rest Days:

Walking, cycling and or cruising the crags, cafes or tea rooms are perhaps the most energetic you’ll be up for after a day on Dovedale’s harder routes.