Essential Beta

How to get there:

Malham lies some five miles north of the A65, the Leeds to
Kendal road. Public transport does serve Malham village but most go by car. Once there, car-parking is tricky – early birds
might get a roadside freebie, the rest will be paying.

When to Visit:

Malham Cove is pretty nearly a year-round crag. That said, the
central section seeps heavily in places in winter and then turns into an oven in summer!

Summer sessions are however
possible – just go on a cloudy day or in the afternoon/evening. Spring and autumn are therefore the favoured seasons.

Where to Stay/Shop:

Camping stop-overs are possible in Malham and in nearby Gordale. There’s also a number of camping barns and hostels in the areas as well as B&Bs. Shopping wise, bits and
bats are available locally only; stock up before you head in.

Which Guide:

Northern Limestone (Rockfax) and Yorkshire Limestone
(Yorkshire Mountaineering Club) are the two guides to Malham and nearby crags.

Photos:

Main: Steve McClure on Overshadow (F9a+).

Secondary: Malham Cove from Malham beck.

Download:

May 2008 Factfile.pdf

Malham Cove ...

has been adopted by Steve McClure as his virtual second home! Over the last few years he has blasted the Cove into the realm of UK super-crag with his new test-pieces, Rainshadow (F9a) and Overshadow (F9a+). Both are up there with the very best hard sport routes that exist anywhere and, not surprisingly, both are still unrepeated. McClure’s ascent of Overshadow in May 2007, the culmination of three years effort, was quite amazing. Climbed on a bank holiday Monday, the entire crag dropped into an eerie silence as Steve hung in the ‘bat-hang’ resting before the final section. All the training and preparation paid off as he quit the ‘rest’ and blasted to the top. In a heart-beat the job was done and Overshadow was finished; the fifty-odd climbers that were there all burst into spontaneous applause – probably another first
for a UK crag! Question is, who will step up and take on the challenge to repeat Steve’s hardest yet route?

Featured Problems:

Overshadow (F9a+) is the hardest sport route of its length in the UK at the present time. It starts up Overnight Sensation (F8a+) and then blasts direct
through the band of overhangs above finishing thirty metres above the cat-walk ledge.

Tips:

Train, train and then train some more – not least of which hanging off your toes to perfect a ‘bat-hang’.

Clips:

A ‘full’ rack needed, ie a dozen draws and a 60m rope.

‘Must Do’s’:

Malham is stuffed with ‘must-do’
routes of all grades.

New Dawn (F7c),

Zoolook (F8a),

Raindogs (F8a),

Predator (F8b)

Austrian Oak (F8b)

Unjustified (F8c)

are but a small selection of
Malham’s best sport routes.

Alternatives:

Nearby Gordale and Kilnsey are the best alternatives to Malham though both are ‘summer’ crags only.

Rest Days:

Go home to rest. If you are on a road-trip, you could check out the teashops in the area or head for one of the stately houses for a touch of culture.