Lulworth Cove…
is in a great location on the south coast of England next the
great sea-arch of Durdle Door but it has had something of a chequered
history. Developed initially as a sport climbing venue, the routes
at Lulworth were truly spectacular despite being relatively short.
Once the ‘nu-skool’ sub-sport of deep water soling (DWS) was borne,
Lulworth had a second birth. Sadly, problems ensued with access
as the landowners didn’t want climbing on their estate. Lulworth
went into ‘hibernation’. Officially this remains the case, “the
descriptions are included (here) for completeness”, so records
Deep Water, the new guide from Mike Robertson. Lulworth ‘presents’
as an inland cove with a spit of land jutting into the sea; the
climbing is hidden from view on the sea-ward face of said spit.
Tourists’ on the shingle beach have little or no idea what lies
beyond. They soak up the rays and slurp their ice-creams in a world
apart from the ‘do or fly’ climbing action just yards away. Lulworth
is class; small but beautiful…
Featured Problems:
Gates of Greyskull (F7b+) is reckoned to be one of the very best
routes of its grade - anywhere. Even amongst the classic lines
of Lulworth’s twin caves, Gates is a ‘must-do’ if you climb at
that level. The sea-level approach around the headland is long,
though easy, and leaves you gaping up at the impressive headwall
of the West Cave. Once you commit, Gates soon imposes itself none
more so than on the final section of the roof.
Tips:
A positive approach is needed; crank it up and keep it high! Look
for the heelhooks and egyptians on-route and milk them all for
what they are worth.
Clips:
A standard DWS kit-bag is all you’ll need, i.e. spare clothes,
boots and chalk-bag.
